Preserved Breadfruit Mahr, A Local Delicacy

by Dr. Lois Englberger

Although the traditional practice of preserving large volumes of breadfruit in leaf-lined pits is now disappearing in Pohnpei and the rest of the Pacific, a convenient modern method has evolved in Pohnpei for preparing mahr, a local delicacy. This can be observed in Kolonia at Ellen's Market, where staff make use of unsold ripe breadfruit.

The ripe breadfruits are carefully peeled and the core is removed. The soft yellow edible flesh is then put into a large clean plastic bag, set inside a metal container with a tight-fitting lid (about 10 gallon in size). In this air-tight environment the breadfruit ferments and is preserved. Local food experts say that both green mature and ripe breadfruit can be used, but that ripe breadfruit ferments faster.

Ellen's market staff explained that after around 3 months the fermented mixture is ready and can be used for making mahr, which is like bread. The properly fermented product is then washed, kneaded, and mixed with grated coconut, and sometimes sugar, and then baked. A single loaf measuring about 10 inches long and 6 inches wide costs $2.50.

Two kinds are sold, the "sour" one with no sugar added, which is preferred by older people, and the "sweet" one, which young people like better. Many people comment about the strong taste of mahr, but Julie Timothy, College of Micronesia Kosrae Campus, who is working on recipe development, pointed out that if the dough is thoroughly washed the baked product does not have a strong taste.

Bascom in his 1946 Economic Survey of Micronesia describes the old method of pit preservation of breadfruit. He reports that from 3000 to 10,000 breadfruits would be put into large pits, from four to six feet deep and six to nine feet in diameter. There were large communal pits and also households made their own. Pits were used and reused, and passed down from generation to generation, and provided a food reserve in off-seasons of breadfruit and in times of short food supply as after typhoons.

Dr. William Ayres and Dr. Rufino Mauricio (1997) excavated old breadfruit pits in Salapwuk, one which measured approximately 45 feet in length but narrowing to about 15 feet in width.

In present times, breadfruit pit preservation is rare. However, modern modifications of traditional methods may improve on the old methods, providing convenience.

Preserved breadfruit, mahr, has been analyzed for its nutrient content and contains important levels of iron and calcium, needed minerals for good health. Mahr also contains some provitamin A carotenoids, 40 micrograms per 100 grams, and although not high compared to some local foods, it is still higher than rice, which contains none.

Try some mahr soon!